BRAWN, Columbia Road, London

The food: honest, local, simple, educated, with a nod to tradition (British and French). Meat heavy but the clue’s in the name…..

The wine: sourced from small growers who work sustainably, organically or bio-dynamically in the vineyard….a 90 bin list to choose from, but we managed…

Wow, all the monkfish values in one restaurant, this was music to my ears. We’ve wanted to dine at Brawn for ages so on our last trip to London we made a beeline for Columbia Road – it was eerily quiet on a Friday night compared to the frenetic goings on during Sunday morning and the infamous flower market.  However, Brawn has a brilliant location, smack bang on a corner in quite literally the middle of everything if ‘everything’ was going on.

The signage is subtle but cool, white chalk paint on a brick, blink and you’d miss it. This styling sets the tone for what’s inside.  Wooden tables, school chairs, cool artwork, exposed brick, industrial lighting, and naturally very cool customers. It is suitably hip but far enough away for the Hoxton trendies to form only part of the clientele. Yes, everyone is pretty much beautiful and super cool but there’s a good mix of people and the joint is jumping with people standing at the bar munching bar snacks and drinking wine.

The menu consists of ‘plates’.  Brilliant, that means we can order more than one dish each….after a two week tour of Andalucia and a tapas habit we can’t seem to break this was good news. First up comes some fantastic sourdough bread baked locally which is simply delicious. Good start. With so much choice on the menu this was going to be tricky but we were up for it and gave it a good stab. The menu ran like this….’Taste Tickler’, ‘Pig’, ‘Cold’, ‘Hot’, ‘Pudding&Cheese’…and with a bottle of Verdicchio (£21.50) on its way we ordered….

From ‘Pig‘ we had Saucisson Sec Noir de Bigorre (£7)….melt in your mouth charcuterie…

from ‘Cold‘ we had Smoked Mackerel, Celeriac Remoulade (£6)…fantastic flavours…

from ‘Hot‘ we had Atlantic Cod, Chick Peas, Paprika & Aioli (£16)…perfectly cooked fish with the right balance of garlic and paprika, a classic combination but delivered brilliantly…

and Spatchcock’d Quail, Pomegranate and Pistachio (£10)….and Baked Field Mushrooms, Bone Marrow, Garlic and Bacon (£8.50).  You can’t visit a restaurant called Brawn and not partake in a spot of offal….is bone marrow classed as offal? Answers in the comments below….could spark a debate!

Believe it or not after all of the above we did make it to ‘Puddings&Cheese’ although had to share a chocolate mousse (£5), well and truly stuffed.

From the restaurateurs who have previously brought us Terroirs in Charing Cross and more recently Soif in Battersea, Brawn gets it right for us. It’s a gem, a return visit is pending…soon.

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8 Responses to BRAWN, Columbia Road, London

  1. Wonderful article with inspirational atmospheric photos . Stylish food writing at it’s best, what I’ve come to expect from mymonkfish.com

  2. Great review of a great restaurant! I also had the quail last time I was there, totally delicious but my favourite was the tuscan shredded beef on the cold section…mmm!

  3. love the photo’s and the decor here .. it look alike it is a really fabulous place to eat

  4. This looks wonderful. Great photos and so atmospheric.
    Would love to eat here, the charcuterie looks good, and the smoked mackerel sublime.
    Cheers
    Marcus

    • Marcus – thanks for the comment, it was indeed marvellous and I can’t wait for a return visit….mackerel was amazing…

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